The Men’s Suit - Suit Jacket Fit
The jacket on a men’s tailored suits will have its waist button just below the wearer’s actual waist, in order for it to be considered as being a proper fit. Additionally, it would have sleeves that leave room for a minimum of 1” of the wearer’s shirt cuff to be visible. An easy way of determining whether a jacket is long enough is to curl one’s fingers at the second knuckle around the bottom of the jacket. If the jacket’s hem just reaches where the fingers join the hand, it is a proper fit. However, if the hem touches the curled fingers or bunches up, the jacket is too long.
Measuring the jacket from the top of the spine to the floor, and then dividing this by half is another way to gauge whether the jacket fits properly. However, it must be kept in mind that both techniques are only general means for evaluating. Any unusual variations of the wearer will not be taken into account when one uses these methods. If performed correctly, both will yield a good measure for a ready-made suit. The most accurate measurements can only be made when the wearer opts for a made-to-measure or a bespoke men’s tailor made suit.
A jacket’s sleeves should be well fitted to the specific dimensions of the wearer’s arm and should taper as necessary to avoid the appearance of flaring out towards the hand. The cuffs should be wide enough to allow free movement. However, they should not be so wide as to hang loosely when the arms are raised. Similarly, they should not be so narrow as to resemble the elasticised cuffs of rain jackets.
The jacket’s length remains of prime importance in all men’s tailored suits. A jacket that is too short will expose undesirable portions of the wearer’s anatomy. Similarly, an overly long jacket will dwarf the wearer making him resemble a film gangster of the 1930s.
Even worse, if the jacket has extremely long sleeves, the wearer could end up appearing like an orang-utan! In accordance with the modern trends in wearing habits and men’s suits, men have become accustomed to wearing jackets that are quite long. This has come about because men tend to wear their trousers at their hips rather than at the waist. Consequently, modern-day jackets have lower gorge and waist buttons.